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| To: | [email protected] |
|---|---|
| Subject: | LF: RE: RE: litz wire |
| From: | "john sexton" <[email protected]> |
| Date: | Thu, 16 May 2002 04:54:37 -0400 (EDT) |
| Reply-to: | [email protected] |
| Sender: | <[email protected]> |
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Presumably Aluminium foil would work just as well, provided you don't get it so hot it catches fire?
John, G4CNN --- On Wed 05/15, Ashlock,William > Jim, > > Your posting is like a breath of fresh air! (literally - after trying to > use > aspirin on the wire and becoming all but overcome with the fumes!). What > you > describe below, particularly the "impervious > to any chemicals", matches my experiences to a 'T'. I'm sure we have > the > same Decca Litz wire. > > I'll check out your method tonight and report back tomorrow. > > Many thanks! > > Bill A > > -----Original Message----- > From: James Moritz [mailto:[email protected]] > Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 9:54 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: LF: RE: litz wire > > > Dear Bill, LF Group, > > I have a considerable amount of Litz wire recovered from a scrap Decca > loading coil - as has been said, there is more than one type of enamel > used. The newer type (usually orange, red or pink) is self-fluxing, which > > is easy, but the type I have is a dark brown enamel that seems impervious > > to any chemicals I have tried, including Nitromors and other types of > paint > stripper. The alcohol burner method removes it well, but with 729 strands > > it is not really practical to burn the insulation off all the strands > without causing a raging inferno! Similarly, the asprin method works to a > > degree, but it only cleans some of the strands with thick litz wire, the > residue makes it difficult to repeat the process to clean the remaining > strands, and the smoke generated is horrendous! > > The method I have used is to burn the insulation off with a blowtorch - > but > to do this without burning away a lot of the strands some care is needed. > > First, strip about 70 - 100mm of the plastic sheathing, and un-twist the > end 25mm so that the strands are like a small paint brush. Then, tightly > wrap this end in a strip of copper foil, such as might be peeled off a > PCB. > Wrap the strands next to the plastic sheathing in another piece of foil, > and clamp in a metal clamp or vice - this acts as a heatsink to stop the > sheathing melting. Then heat the foil-wrapped end with a blowtorch, taking > > care to apply the flame only to the foil, not the strands. The foil gets > red hot, and the enamel burns off with an oily flame. After it has cooled, > > unwrap the foil - it looks like the enamel has just turned black, but the > > residue can be removed fairly easily by dipping it in water and brushing > gently with a toothbrush, or rubbing the strands together like cleaning a > > paintbrush, to leave clean copper. Then it can be tinned in the normal > way. > > I can't say it is an easy method, but it does work with otherwise > indestructible enamel, and after a few practice runs it gave me > satisfactory results for my loading coil. > > Cheers, Jim Moritz > 73 de M0BMU > > > > _____________________________________________________________________ > This message has been checked for all known viruses by UUNET delivered > through the MessageLabs Virus Control Centre. For further information > visit > http://www.uk.uu.net/products/security/virus/ > > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! |
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