Genial! Do it!!! :-)
If your E-bike feeds back the energy to the battery (when driving down
a hill), you may even use the generator, battery and inverter of the
bike for the job.
What is the rated voltage of the battery? Should be easy to build a PA
for 36V or so.
PS: I think the EMC issues of the design which was described below is
not a real problem.
Am 12.06.2013 00:02, schrieb Markus Vester:
Hi Mal, Stefan,
... but you'd want to filter and
shield that inverter carefully, otherwise you won't be able to hear
Christian on 136.5 CW ;-) You may end up with a choice between
either "clean but heavy" (low frequency iron transformer), or "elegant
light but dirty" (SMPS).
Wondering about Eddies remark on the
rpm mismatch between propeller and alternator - what would be the
optimum frequency range for either side? I do have a three-phase
direct-drive bicycle motor which should be good for 400 W at relatively
low speed - perhaps better suited? It's relatively heavy, about 4.5 kg
of iron, neodymium, copper and aluminium.
power would seem the ideal complement to kite transmit activity... I've
been pondering about extracting it from the kite itself but that idea
is not new at all, just google for "kite energy", eg. http://www.enerkite.com/
The plan is to have the ebike
pull myself and the equipment onto some hilltop. Then mount wind blades
onto the front wheel, and get the kite up for a three-hour VLF dash
while topping up the battery on the side. Then roll downhill and come
home with the fully charged battery ready for tomorrow ;-)
Sent: Tuesday, June 11, 2013 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: LF: DIY WIND GENERATOR
Hi Warren, Mal, LF,
When answering to Mal about the topic, i also thought about removing
the rectifier, first. But then i thought this could be problematic due
to the wide range of frequencies which can go down to nearly DC. A
mains transformer could become saturated then, or needs very high
numbers of turns on both sides.
I think the best is to use a bridge of 6 FETs, e.g. IRFP4368
and a 3 phase ferrite transformer and build a suitable supply with an
output voltage at say 200 DC. You can then distribute the power to the
shack with a thin wire and us e.g. a simple normal SMPS for mains
applications (like a standard 13.8V DC supply from the amateur store)
and feed it with that 200V DC voltage.
Ignore the savety aspect ;-)