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To: rsgb_lf_group@blacksheep.org
Subject: LF: RE: RE: litz wire
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From: "john sexton" <computernetworks@excite.com>
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 Presumably Aluminium foil would work just as well, provided you don't get it so hot it catches fire?
<br />
John, G4CNN
<br />

<br />
--- On Wed 05/15, Ashlock,William <William.Ashlock@edwards.boc.com> wrote:
<br />
> Jim,
<br />
> 
<br />
> Your posting is like a breath of fresh air! (literally - after trying to
<br />
> use
<br />
> aspirin on the wire and becoming all but overcome with the fumes!). What
<br />
> you
<br />
> describe below, particularly the "impervious 
<br />
> to any chemicals", matches my experiences to a 'T'. I'm sure we have
<br />
> the
<br />
> same Decca Litz wire. 
<br />
> 
<br />
> I'll check out your method tonight and report back tomorrow.
<br />
> 
<br />
> Many thanks!
<br />
> 
<br />
> Bill A 
<br />
> 
<br />
> -----Original Message-----
<br />
> From: James Moritz [mailto:j.r.moritz@herts.ac.uk]
<br />
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 9:54 AM
<br />
> To: rsgb_lf_group@blacksheep.org
<br />
> Subject: LF: RE: litz wire
<br />
> 
<br />
> 
<br />
> Dear Bill, LF Group,
<br />
> 
<br />
> I have a considerable amount of Litz wire recovered from a scrap Decca 
<br />
> loading coil - as has been said, there is more than one type of enamel 
<br />
> used. The newer type (usually orange, red or pink) is self-fluxing, which
<br />
> 
<br />
> is easy, but the type I have is a dark brown enamel that seems impervious
<br />
> 
<br />
> to any chemicals I have tried, including Nitromors and other types of
<br />
> paint 
<br />
> stripper. The alcohol burner method removes it well, but with 729 strands
<br />
> 
<br />
> it is not really practical to burn the insulation off all the strands 
<br />
> without causing a raging inferno! Similarly, the asprin method works to a
<br />
> 
<br />
> degree, but it only cleans some of the strands with thick litz wire, the 
<br />
> residue makes it difficult to repeat the process to clean the remaining 
<br />
> strands, and the smoke generated is horrendous!
<br />
> 
<br />
> The method I have used is to burn the insulation off with a blowtorch -
<br />
> but 
<br />
> to do this without burning away a lot of the strands some care is needed.
<br />
> 
<br />
> First, strip about 70 - 100mm of the plastic sheathing, and un-twist the 
<br />
> end 25mm so that the strands are like a small paint brush. Then, tightly 
<br />
> wrap this end in a strip of copper foil, such as might be peeled off a
<br />
> PCB. 
<br />
> Wrap the strands next to the plastic sheathing in another piece of foil, 
<br />
> and clamp in a metal clamp or vice - this acts as a heatsink to stop the 
<br />
> sheathing melting. Then heat the foil-wrapped end with a blowtorch, taking
<br />
> 
<br />
> care to apply the flame only to the foil, not the strands. The foil gets 
<br />
> red hot, and the enamel burns off with an oily flame. After it has cooled,
<br />
> 
<br />
> unwrap the foil - it looks like the enamel has just turned black, but the
<br />
> 
<br />
> residue can be removed fairly easily by dipping it in water and brushing 
<br />
> gently with a toothbrush, or rubbing the strands together like cleaning a
<br />
> 
<br />
> paintbrush, to leave clean copper. Then it can be tinned in the normal
<br />
> way.
<br />
> 
<br />
> I can't say it is an easy method, but it does work with otherwise 
<br />
> indestructible enamel, and after a few practice runs it gave me 
<br />
> satisfactory results for my loading coil.
<br />
> 
<br />
> Cheers, Jim Moritz
<br />
> 73 de M0BMU
<br />
> 
<br />
> 
<br />
> 
<br />
> _____________________________________________________________________
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