Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 11:09:09 -0500
From: "Steve Dove" <dsp@hifidelity.com>
Subject: Re: LF: Re: Trees as antenna supports
To: rsgb_lf_group@blacksheep.org,  rsgb_lf_group@blacksheep.org
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Hi all,

Another proponent of the fishing-rod method.  It does presuppose at
least some wasted youth shivering on river-banks, or at least some
patience as one learns how to cast.

My favourite is a 7ft. glass rod (cheapy from a 'junque' market), 10lb.
monofil and a 2oz. weight.  (SI, who?).  With practice 70' or 80' 
clearances are possible;  got a few ridiculous things that
high up in the copious Tulip Poplars with which I am cursed/blessed.

Do it now before the leaves appear.  Spray-paint the bobs (buy many!)
white;  yellow, orange or red tend to disappear in dead-leaf territory.
Gently jiggling or back-and-forth with the rod is usually all it takes to
get a reluctant cast to eventually reach ground.  Don't be afraid to
'cut your losses' and accept losing line and weight if they get stuck;
they're cheap, and as Tom pointed out you do not want to be in the
way of a lump of elastically-powered lead  -  they used to fight wars
like that . . .

I take a little collapsible rod ($14.99 from K-mart) with me on DX-
peditions;  it is somewhat lighter, packs more easily, and is almost
as effective as seven sections of Rohn 25.

Never mind anything else, holding a rod simply reminds me that all
I've ever wanted to be in life is a lock-keeper on the Thames.

        Cheers,

                Steve        W3EEE


3/11/2002 2:43:23 PM, "HighGain" <dx.dx@virgin.net> wrote:

>Here is a far better way to get high above 100 ft or more. I know from
>experience, I have several trees as supports. Use a small fishing rod, they
>are accurate. And you can get higher than 100 foot or 30 mtrs with this
>arrangement ;-) forget about bows and arrows hahahaha.
>
>Regards & Best Wishes
>Roy
>MM0LOS
>
>> Dear LFers
>>
>> Just a few more words of advice to the would-be Robin Hoods or Davids
>> (as in vs. Goliath) amongst us.
>>
>> 1) Use a proper lead weight with an eye in it instead of a steel nut.
>> These are obtainable along with the catapult in any angling shop and are
>> available in various weights. I use a 6 or 8 ozs one.
>>
>> 2) Use the fluorescent orange coloured mono-filament nylon line. Much
>> easier to see when it is hanging down through the branches.
>>
>> 3) If the weight doesn't reach the ground on the other side of the tree,
>> don't immediately pull it back but ease it back and forth to try and
>> bring it down.
>>
>> 4) If that doesn't work, pull it back SLOWLY. If you do it fast, the
>> line will wrap itself around a branch and you will never get it down.
>> Do not pull with all your might as you stand a good chance of injuring
>> yourself as the weight flies towards you. (I speak from experience!)
>>
>> 5) Once you have the mono-filament across the highest point, use it to
>> pull back some thin cord and then use this to pull across the rope
>> halyard. Doing it in two stages lessens the risk of breaking the thin
>> nylon. I use polypropylene for halyards BUT I would think twice about
>> using polyprop for guying masts as it is attacked by UV and deteriorates
>> with age.
>>
>>
>> - I've not managed to get a halyard higher than 60 ft with a catapult,
>> mainly due to the poor elasticity of the synthetic rubber used as
>> previously noted. Anyone know of a good source of bows and arrows in UK?
>>
>> 73, Tom G3OLB
>>
>>
>
>
>